2023 will be an important year for Carl F. Bucherer. First of all, it marks the 135th anniversary of the Lucerne-based watchmaker also known as CFB. But mostly, the brand wants to move forward, reposition itself and bring something fresh and new. More contemporary, bolder, more original, we’ll surely see a new design language for Carl F. Bucherer watches in the near future. And this new era starts today, with the Carl F. Bucherer Capsule Collection. Five watches, all based on existing models – the most emblematic ones – reimagined in black DLC or Forged Carbon, for a more powerful and more modern look. Watches that make a powerful statement.
Before we see entirely new models in the brand’s collection, CFB is opening the festivities with a quintet of models that have been dressed in bold black. Whether based on chronographs – Heritage or Manero – or on the brand’s most complex watches – a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar or a peripheral rotor – these are all familiar watches… Except that in the past, we’ve seen them in a rather classic attire. Not anymore. These watches, with their striking contrasts and cutting-edge materials, are there “to meet the needs and desires of the modern consumer around the world.” Carl F. Bucherer isn’t shy of saying that these watches are much bolder than in the past. And the result speaks for itself. Let’s have a closer look at each of the 5 models that compose the 2023 Carl F. Bucherer Capsule Collection.
The Manero Tourbillon Double PeripheralBlack
Let’s start with the most complex model in this Capsule Collection, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double PeripheralBlack. Like all three complication models with in-house movements, this one is cased in forged carbon. A titanium container houses the COSC-certified movement with its Double Peripheral technology. Not only the movement is self-wound by a peripheral rotor, but it also features apatented peripherally mounted floating tourbillon – something unique in the industry that we explored in this video. The CFB T3000 manufacture calibre boasts 65h of power reserve, is a chronometer and is presented in a unique, dark grey-coated finishing, which matches the rest of the watch.
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A limited edition of 30 pieces, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double PeripheralBlack is a 43.10mm watch with its patterned carbon case framing a domed, deep black matte dial with rhodium-plated markers and hands. It creates a striking contrast with the floating tourbillon at 12 o’clock. The watch is worn on a hybrid rubber strap with a carbon-like texture and quick-release system, closed by a DLC-coated titanium and stainless steel folding clasp. It is priced at EUR 54,000.
Quick facts: 43.10mm x 12.30mm – Forged carbon with titanium container, sapphire crystals, 30m water-resistant – matte black dial – calibre CFB T3000 in-house, automatic double-peripheral tourbillon, chronometer, 65h power reserve – rubber strap – limited to 30 pieces – ref. 00.10920.16.33.01 – EUR 54,000
The Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black
Another complicated watch, the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black appears familiar at first sight but has something new under the hood. If the look and display (due to the use of a Dubois-Depraz QP module) are the same as the classic version of the Manero Perpetual we reviewed here, the movement has been changed… And for something much more appealing. In the past, this watch was based on an ETA2892, it is now powered by an in-house peripheral movement, the calibre A2055. It is presented in a dark-coated version, with thin stripes.
The watch itself echoes the tourbillon above, with its 41.6mm forged carbon case and its matte black dial with rhodium-plated contrasting hands, markers and tracks. This limited edition of 88 pieces is worn on a hybrid rubber strap with Milky Way texture and quick-release system, closed by a DLC-coated titanium and stainless steel folding clasp. The Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black is priced at EUR 33,000.
Quick facts: 41.6mm x 12.49mm – Forged carbon with titanium container, sapphire crystals, 30m water-resistant – matte black dial – calibre CFB A2055 in-house, automatic perpetual calendar with peripheral rotor, 55h power reserve – rubber strap – limited to 88 pieces – ref. 00.10916.16.33.01 – EUR 33,000
The Manero Peripheral BigDate Black
A variation of a classic theme within the collection, the new Manero Peripheral BigDate Black is based on this appealing model here, which has been launched in 2021to bring a fresh touch to the Manero range. Here again, the case is forged carbon, matched with a rubber brushed strap and a matte black dial. The display is familiar too, with small seconds, power reserve indicator, large double-digit date and day-of-the-week window.
Inside the 41.6mm case is a new version of the in-house calibre CFB A2011, known for its peripheral rotor. With a comfortable 65h power reserve, it shows angular and sharp bridges, which are here treated in dark grey. The Manero Peripheral BigDate Black is a limited edition of 188 pieces, with a COSC certification. It is priced at EUR 21,000.
Quick facts: 41.6mm x 12.82mm – Forged carbon with titanium container, sapphire crystals, 30m water-resistant – matte black dial – calibre CFB A2011 in-house, automatic calendar with peripheral rotor, 65h power reserve – rubber strap – limited to 188 pieces – ref. 00.10926.16.33.01 – EUR 21,000
The Manero Flyback Black
The last two models in the 2023 Carl F. Bucherer Capsule Collection are a bit different than the 3 other aforementioned models. These are simpler watches, not powered by in-house movements, not limited and not housed in forged carbon cases. Instead, the brand has decided to reveal these two chronographs as part of the permanent collection, and in black cases with DLC coating.
The first model is based on one of the brand’s most popular models, the 43mm Manero Flyback. Equipped with an automatic column-wheel flyback chronograph movement made by La Joux-Perret, it is here fully black-coated with a matte black dial, with rhodium-plated elements. The movement is showing a black column wheel and rotor, and the watch is worn on a black rubber strap with pyramid texture and quick-release system, closed by a DLC-coated titanium and stainless-steel folding clasp. This unlimited reference is priced at EUR 7,400.
Quick facts: 43mm x 14.45mm – DLC-coated steel case, sapphire crystals, 30m water-resistant – matte black dial – calibre CFB 1970, automatic chronograph with column-wheel and flyback, 42h power reserve – rubber strap – unlimited – ref. 00.10919.12.33.01 – EUR 7,400
The Heritage BiCompax Annual Black
Last but not least for this Capsule collection, Carl F. Buchereris releasing an all-black edition of its vintage-inspired annual calendar chronograph, the Heritage BiCompax. As with the Manero Flyback above, the case is here black DLC-coated stainless steel, paired with a matte full-black dial. The outsourced movement is here presented with a black rotor. The watch, offered in a non-limited edition, is worn on a rubber strap with pyramid texture closed by a folding clasp. This model is priced at EUR 8,100.
Quick facts: 41mm x 14.15mm – DLC-coated steel case, sapphire crystals, 30m water-resistant – matte black dial – calibre CFB 1972 (base ETA 2894), automatic annual calendar chronograph, 42h power reserve – rubber strap – unlimited – ref. 00.10803.12.32.01 – EUR 8,100
For more details about the 2023Carl F. Bucherer Capsule Collection of black watches, please visit www.carl-f-bucherer.com.